Big Wednesday

well it wasn't that big I suppose!

wednesday I headed down to bells and surfed a fun 3-4ft onshore swell, a bit bumpy but good fun.

Then Mick and I went to have breakfast snd coffee with Maurice at the Torquay Lader. After an hour or so of talk about surfboard design, Kiteboarding and a very good toasty and latte, Mick and I headed back to bells for a "look".

Out we went only this time the swell had Jacked and was in the 5-6ft range, hmmm probably around the biggest I've been out at bells and a bit intimidating with the wind and bump. After a tough paddle out I sat in the line up of 4 and waited thinking to myself this could have been a bad Idea. I was on my 6'5 single fin and it was definitely at the limits of what it was intended for.

Then Marching in on the horizon came the first bomb, "I am way to far inside" and as the tripple overhead wave rolled in, a quick look behind and then down, down, down and as I felt myself being dragged back by the leggie I surfaced to see the next one coming in!

The Swell was building and my guess was now solid 6ft maybe 7ft plus on the sets. Now it definitely was the biggest surf I had been out in and I was yet to catch a wave. but in the back of my mind, the only way in was to surf.

Focus! I had to get a wave to go in! As I paddled in and got booted into the wave by the early crumbling lip, I got to my feet, the wave was still rising, never has it seemed so long to get down the face as I watched the lip rising above my head, it was so bumpy and I just kept gaining speed. Now I was having fun this was Awesome!!!!! Coming round the bottom turn and onto the shoulder, carving a big backhand turn on the huge face and droping back down into the next section. I was flying at this point, I can't even begin to describe what a rush this was.

I surfed that wave all the way in, as I bailed and was spat up onto the beach and managed to grab my board and make a run for it before the next shorbreak came down on top of me.

That night I sat contemplating that wave, I remembered the feelings and I want those feeling again.

On reflection it seems that just as in life we have limits at which we often turn back so that we can feel comfortable again, yet the next time we face those limits we often pass them with ease, this it seems is part of the journey of learning. I am not in a hurry to get back out in such big swell but at least it now seems like a possible goal

Mornington

The weekend was good, more than good. Ro, Wal, Al and I surfed St Andrews on Saturday, we arrived to empty lines rolling in from the south west ruffled by a little easterly wind swell 4ft and clean. As we looked out we could only assume that Christmas shopping had taken hold of the crowds and fate had gifted this empty bank for our enjoyment.

We spent the first hour surfing the right and then like magic the left walled up and with crystal clarity we had steep long hollow walls dancing with morning sunlight along which to run our fingers and play! We left happy and I had a wave that gave me a lifetime worth of stoke :-):-):-)

Sunday we surfed Woolamai.

South Africa, Thailand, Mornington

I have felt scattered. Like I'm trying to do too much. What with family committements and work, being divorced and wanting to surf, share ideas, make Surfboards, skateboards and generally have fun. All of which seem somewhat indulgent activities, blah blah blah.

So whilst reflecting on how my surfing is slowly improving having started at fourty and feeling the subtle onslaught of age and noticing how sensitive I am to minor changes in diet, exercise and increased alcohol consumption. My mind keeps drifting to the sight of thousands of hectares of Thailand under water. From Bangkok to almost half way to Chiang Rai all I could see was the dull Ochre of water muddied by soil, with only the highland spared. It places things into pespective.

The mountains around Chiang Rai are beautiful. Truly a world of undiscovered treasures waiting to be explored. This is a part of Thailand that you wouldn't normally go out of your way to see but I am so glad I got to experience it.

Nelspruit in South Africa too was truly amazing, Nestled just west of South Africa's Kruger Park, with breathtaking gorges and wildlife everywhere, it is well worth a visit.

Now I'm jumping around bit, but these two places shared a connection in that they were both locations for media exposure to the new Ford Ranger, events at which I was presenting the Design story behind the vehicle.

Now This Truck is truly amazing and even though I am biased, being one of the designers responsible. Asside from its stunning looks, when you see this vehicle in action it is quite impressive. Because its one thing to be told during the development stages all about the cababilities of a vehicle but another thing entirely to see it perform in real life!

The only thing I really missed was being close to the ocean :-)

Three weeks of midweek swell!!!!! Arrrrgh

Nice place to carve :-)

Yes that has been the dilema great swell during the week and onshore winds at the weekend. Thankfully there have been my projects. A quad fin hull bit of an experiment really, a single fin hull and a skateboard that I made from some left over Paulownia and Red Ceder with Hardware from Paris Trucks and Orangatang wheels I need to add the laser cut Alloy pads to stop the bolts pulling through. The Deck also has three layers of 4oz glass in the centre and then two 4oz top and two 4oz bottom, it rides so smoothly it is really awesome :-).

AND THEN...........there has been a silver thread magicaly woven into the past week in the form of a local discovery that has allowed me to gain a little bit of stoke when its two hours drive to the nearest break!
Bullen Bowl. well not really a bowl more of a quarter pipe snake run that is perfect for old school cruising and after a couple of runs I was feeling the buzz! entry into the little to bowl at the top and then carve your down to the head high bowl at the end, it was fun fun fun and just at the point when I really needed a surf!. So gratefull I am for such perfect coincidences.

Byron Bay

Two weeks ago Pete and I set out in my "newly converted to be camping ready" van and headed to Byron Bay to meet up with another friend Paul from Noosa.

After a very, so cold you had to sleep in a beeny night in the Oxley Ranges, we arrived in Byron Sunday afternoon.

Zooming out from The Pass the ocean looked like blue jelly sprinkeld with cracked pepper. It was so busy, but still we managed a few waves :-)

Monday morning and the promise of a new southerly ground swell, we headed down to Lennox and Boulders to check out the points, it was pumping! We ended up at flat rock rock a Barrelling 6-8 feet on the inside, and with only 3 guy's out and no one on our section we had the place to ourselves, Awesome! Awesome! Awesome!

Only to return Tuesday and see that the swell had Jacked! Paul and I watched Boulders for a while and in half an hour many tried but one guy made the drop, being so Southerly it was running like a frieght train and at Double overhead plus and one sweet session in the bag, I was just happy to watch.

We returned to Byron and had a nice mellow session on the longboards. Paul Surfed my latest Hollow board a 6'5" Retro Single based on MP's morning of the earth ride.

So as well as some amazing swell we also had some beautiful weather and Thanks to Pete some food to feed the Soul and fill the belly.

It was so tranquil and Byron also offers some great Organic food and Great Coffee. It really is a special place..........

Sunday At the Bowl part 2

Sunday was magic, Cold Sunny and just about as beautiful as Bells Beach gets!

with a 4-6ft SW swell and a gusty offshore wind at 8am on the low tide the waves were pumping! Ro, Leeroy and I headed down for a few :-)

Sunday at the Bowl

went to Bells on Sunday with Yohan and the French Army and had some nice waves.

lots of smiles all round :-)

Chicken and the Chube

Well thats the photo! The "chube" was made by Yohan

The two boards, Rohan's 7'6" simmons and my 6'0" sinfle fin.

Now they just need some wax a leash and a bit of clean swell and we're away :-)

Building Swell

Had a Great weekend :-)

Saturday Ro, Jem, Mitch and I surfed Woolamai at Philip Island a nice 2-3ft beach break.

Then on Sunday I Surfed Bells and it was magic!

Gift of the Ether

Out of the Ether they come, Rising from the deep. Carry me to the space where I may glide upon the ocean, to rise and love this moment, this gift so brief, so sweet, this metaphor for life.

Dave and I surfed bells, on a day when all roads led to stay in Melbourne. But sometimes a part of you whispers and you listen. They are times when I am glad I do. In a Decade where we have seen fire rage across the land, rain fall in biblical proportions earthquakes and tsunami's, as our brothers and sisters die in the thousands it is sometimes hard to understand this world yet it is so important to appreciate this blink of life.

The Weekend

well the swell didn't live up to expectaion on Saturday, but it didn't matter the day was so beautiful and we had some fun chest high waves so all was well.

Ro, Benny and I surfed williamsons which is on the way to Wonthaggi, about 20 minutes past Philip Island, as you can see from the pics it was a beautiful day.

Sunday we got some adrenaline pumping after a bit of where do we go? and a phone call from the Island warning of 6ft plus closeouts and a predicted building swell we headed west and surfed some pretty sweet head high sets at Bells Beach. Another beautiful morning, with purple hues at sunrise and beams of light, igniting the fringes of the clouds, God I Love the morning!

There was a big crowd out but pretty friendly.

Monday was the dawn of a new board :-)

Saturday at Maresias

Here is where Brazil becomes a vision of paradise that is epitomised by beautiful beaches and warm ocean, fresh coconut water and tanned bikini clad beauties.

This coupled with 3 feet of perfect swell and indeed it would be heaven but alas it was more like 1 foot. Still it was a beautiful day and as we trundled down the cobbled main street it was easy to see why Maresias was a Soul Surfers destination of the 70's.

Maressias used to be accessible only by a service road for the petroleum pipes that carry crude oil to the refineries. Now it is a beautiful beach community where the mountains finish at the sea and water is a tepid 26C in summer.

After a few knee high short but fun rides on friends, friends longboard, a swim and a siesta we had the most delicious fish meal and a few beers to wash it down.

All in all it was a pretty perfect day and if you ever get a chance please don't miss out :-)

Sao Paulo

Day three in Sao Paulo, what I wouldn't give for a good wave and a strong Latte, :-) The surf is not far away but with the traffic here it can be anywhere up to two hours to the closest surf beach which is Santos, I'm going to try and get there at least once but I have a busy schedule and right now I am feeling pretty jet lagged.

On Sunday I caught up with my friend Pedro, a Designer with GM here in Brazil and met his family it was a pretty awesome day, its really nice to meet and spend time with locals as you get a little insight into a world that you don't get as a tourist.

well since I wrote the above, I found a place near the hotel that makes a great Latte

I think that was the most enjoyable coffee I've had in a while

Diversity is truly amazing.

Friday at Bells beach

Friday after work I headed down to Bells with a couple of friends, Johan and Arnou, and arranged to meet Rohan and Leroy there. we arrived to find Rohan had lost a fin and finished early but headed out to catch a few waves with leroy. The waves were breaking nicely in the bowl at a clean 3-4ft. My first wave was pretty sweet, a wide wave a bit overhead which broke perfectly down the line. I'm really enjoying riding the wooden fish, it is so fast and fun to ride and perfect for Bells at that size. We all had a really good surf and there were plenty of waves, it was my first session at bells where I made every wave all the way down the line so I was pretty stoked.

I think Johan caught the biggest wave, a wide set wave around 4ft+, I was paddling out as he was taking off and I thought that is going to be awesome!!!!!

As we finished our session and walked up the beach lightning started to flicker overhead and by the time we walked up the stairs the rain had become a torrent, quickly followed by hail and gale force winds, we could hear the guy's still in the water cheering!

Love Bells beach :-)

Fish for breakfast

Today, Australia day, was the first opportunity to surf Bells with the wooden fish since its completion two months ago, and even though I had some great waves in New South Wales over Christmas, I wish I had taken more photo's while I was away, some of the coast up there is absolutely breathtaking. It was an exciting prospect to surf the break the board was designed for. So Craig and I headed down in the ambrosial hrs before dawn to find a slightly wobbly but very surfable 2-3ft.

The fish was pretty sweet all round, easy to paddle fast down the line with nice acceleration off the bottom turn. Stoked!!!

So what now? well it seems everywhere the board goes it generates a lot of interest :-) so it would be only right to continue the journey and like all things that have humble origins into the ether with curiosity we go.

Surf, Live, Love.