Day 4 Crescent Head

What a Beautiful place! I arrived here on sunday evening just in time to catch a few waves and surfed well into dark, the moon was almost full, the milky way resplendent across the sky and the water was like polished obsidian as my board slid silently across the surface.

Today was just perfect 2ft and offshore at Crescent this morning and a little bigger at Point Plomer this afternoon.

There is a magic about this place as if it has forgotten to move into the race which is modern life. May it never change.

Road Trip day 2

I Arrived in Sydney yesterday after a very relaxed 9hr drive. The forecast for Saturday was looking good with 3 to 4 feet predicted and offshore winds all day. So I headed down to Manly to surf Freshwater Beach, the reality was slightly less spectacular than predicted with 1 to 2 feet of actual swell but it was lots of fun nonetheless.

One thing I did regret was only bringing an unsealed 3/2 summer wetsuit even though the water is still 19C. Oh well one cold day of surf and from here I'm heading north and it will only get warmer.

Saturday At Bells Beach

Tom Roh and myself set out early Saturday for the first decent weekend swell in a while. As we arrived a set was just rolling in and the imfamous bells bowl seemed the pick as Rincon wasn't quite making it through. So we suited up and got out, the swell was hovering around the 4ft mark with the odd bigger one now and then. This was definately the last surf without booties though I did manage 3hrs. But that stinging pain surging through the feet every time you hit the board was enough to make me head straght to Torquay and buy a pair.

The Pics were taken by Tom.

well No surfing this weekend, still it does feel good to have cut the grass and given the environment something of a rest however small by not using the 16L of fuel it usually takes to get to Torquay from Melbourne. Being a Car Designer I feel constantly at odds with my own conscience, after all the drive to be a designer comes from an inherent desire to improve quality of life.

I love the Hydrodynamica blog and when I saw the Ammonite sink image on http://waveslide.blogspot.com/ it reminded me of a car I designed for a competition a few years ago. It was intended to be driven in Paris and be harmonious within its environment, reflecting the Baroque. It seems that Divine inspiration, then expression through Nature is so visually poetic that we can only mimic its perfection.

Morphe 1

Wednesday turned out to be a perfect day to test Morphe 1 two to three foot sets rolling in breaking consistently on the left side bank at Guvvo's near Angelsea, Victoria.

First wave was a perfect right hander at shoulder hieght, my new board performed perfectly, fast and loose. I was stoked. second wave was the same, third wave I got to feel just how tight it could turn and this time I felt like the board was riding me, its going to take time getting used to.

As the tide came in it started to get a bit full so I went in and switched over to a 7'4" fun board caught a couple of waves, coming back for a third I miss timed a roll and as the guy on the wave cut back I got a 3cm fin cut right through the side of my left index finger to the bone, ouch! so no surf for a week or so never mind time to plan the next board.

Can't wait to get get out on Morphe 1 again.