The weekend was magic! Saturday Tom, Rohan, Leroy and I headed down to bells and for me it was, thanks partly to Rohan a great Surf, I was struggling a bit to get on a wave mostly due to the swell around the 4ft mark quite fast but testy with an incoming tide, you really had to be in the perfect spot to take off and my 6'8" was just not getting there for me so Ro and I swapped boards, he has a 6'10" Mccoy and voila!
I got a wave. then another but as I took the bottom turn and started to trim I could see the lip curling over about a 2ft above my head, all I could think was how cool it looked as it was curling over, so I pulled in and tried to make it as far down the line as I could before the lip engulfed me. I didn't get far but IT WAS AWESOME!!!!!
My surfing life now has a new goal. I want to get completely barrelled at least!.........
Sunday, What an a amazing morning, after checking the report for a 3-5ft swell Sam and I headed down to Urquharts Bluff, shoulder high on the sets and a perfect day. I now have the worst case of wetsuit tan and my shoulders are currently in a state of rebellion but I feel amazing as I have had had some great rides on my 9'3" Noserider
I can't believe I will head down tomorrow!......
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